Fluting directions are in Michael Darton's book in the edges chapter at violinmag.com.I cleaned it up with scrapers, by eye using dim lighting at an angle, by feel with my hands. Then I did a rough marking of the arches using an embarrassingly makeshift technique that still helped.
Normally, arching is usually marked and completed before the plates are hollowed out underneath, so you have a flat surface to mark from. At least, it appears most marking jigs use this, and therefore you have to improvise when doing a kit. Ideally, you could clamp a pencil in a router or drill press and slide the plate around on a piece of MDF. But I don't have one yet, so I clamped the pencil to the overhang of the toe-kick ledge of my kitchen island and slid the plate around on the floor to mark it. It looked ridiculous but it worked.

Use a light hand when you mark -- start with the maple back to practice on -- because if you aren't careful you can gouge and stain the spruce. In fact, use a light hand on the spruce in general especially when using the scraper, to avoid tear-out. Using the scraper almost feels more like brushing away crumbs of wood than carving. Be gentle.
Edit: I should have followed the templates more carefully. So much emphasis is put on graduation, but Strads have been regraduated and still sound so amazing -- arching however can't be changed (besides sinking with time) so that must be more influential than the interior graduation. And yet many makers practically eyeball it, as I mostly did here. Just use a mathematically optimized cycloid template, not an exact transcription of an already-sunken Strad. The making the violin templates do compensate which is good.

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